Review - London Fashion Week 2024: Old Money and New Looks
This winter season, London Fashion Week witnessed the emergence of the old money aesthetic, from Burberry's adoption of the "English countryside hunter" look to David Koma's runway take on the Black Swan ballet. Let’s take a look at some favourite highlights from the recent London shows.
On Monday, February 19, 2024, Burberry unveiled their Daniel Lee-designed Winter 2024 collection under a tent in Victoria Park as part of London's 2024 fashion week. Inspired by the people and landscapes of Ireland and the UK, Burberry's collection used their signature patterns and striking outerwear to communicate a feeling of cosiness and rustic flair. Field jackets and duffel coats are paired with moleskin trenches. Traditional crafts and traditions from Lochcarron to Donegal were implicated in inspiring the construction, cloth, and details.
Whilst Burberry presented a more sporting take on original luxury David Koma’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection shouts classic black tie with a contemporary twist. Feathers, dance and artistry all in black and white with a few bold colours of mint and red come together to create an enthralling runway spectacle. Think of the delicate elegance of a swan floating down the runway, feathers galore, floor-sweeping trains and transparent tops. There was certainly a whimsical twist to otherwise elegant designs. Beyond the catwalk, David Koma finds inspiration in the works of the renowned dance pioneers Pina Bausch and Candela Capitán. The contrast between Capitán's mechanical movement and Bausch's intense vulnerability is reflected in the fabrics used: chiffons and satins represent traditional elegance, while tulles and liquid jerseys evoke a festive mood.
One of the most well-known sopranos of the 20th century, Maria Callas, was honoured with a poignant tribute in Erdem's Fall/Winter 2024 collection. The show celebrated her memory by fusing intimate sensitivity with operatic splendour. An opera cloak in pea green with a phenomenal collar that echoes Callas's imperial allure was the opening outfit. Rose designs, adorable kitten heels, embellished cocktail dresses, and satin gowns with quilted accents reminiscent of 1950s housecoats followed. The collection offers a variety of items for a stunning evening ensemble.
From musical inspiration to film, a continuum of sophistication can be observed in 16 Arlington's Fall/Winter 2024 collection. With a collection that acknowledged the outcasts and misfits of popular culture via a polished prism and offered a showcase of the brand's development, Marco Capaldo for 16 Arlington took a bold step into the unknown. Taking inspiration from David Lynch's "Lost Highway," he opted for an interpretive rather than a literal approach. Capaldo astonished the audience with skirts and dresses covered in translucent latex paillette, which alternated between hues of white, red, blue, and grey. His creative approach was demonstrated by the appearance of large silvery sequins that, upon closer examination, proved to be metal.
British-Nigerian designer, Tolu Coker offers an inventive interpretation of the richness of Ghanaian street hawker culture, subverting the Western luxury approach that has heavily featured this Fashion Week. Tyres, banana stacks and food carts with colourful umbrellas framed the runway providing an all-important symbol of inclusivity that allows fashion to continue in its innovative and inspiring nature. The designer drew inspiration for her second London Fashion Week from the resourcefulness and perseverance of women like her mother, who work as distributors for global companies but remain impoverished. They must endure a life devoid of abundance, which makes everything worthwhile. Coker creatively layered clothing. Brightly coloured, stripped corsets are worn over dresses with matching ties, as well as short dresses with denim patchwork. Although we love watching the fashion week runways, we are equally enthralled with street fashion, and Corker showcases a stunning fusion of the two.
The unique textures, vibrant colours, and geometric patterns of Roksanda's Fall/Winter 2024 collection evoked the spirit of the South of France. Designer Ilinčić took inspiration for the collection's architectural flair from his family's trip to the Côte d'Azur. On the catwalk, which was appropriately staged in the Tate Britain, there were dresses constructed with experimental yarns, a cape with a dramatic train, and elegant evening skirts that looked like vibrant murals. citrus green, cantaloupe and aubergine provided a delicate counterbalance and ruffled gowns radiated subtle splendour, while berets and trouser suits oozed easy elegance. Artistic experimentation was certainly captured within this collection.
Overall, London Fashion Week 2024 Fall/Winter has been impressive, to say the least! We're interested to see how the prevalent "old money" aesthetic, which has been seen in several collections, as well as the portrayal of eccentric styles and vibrant colours, will translate into the upcoming Spring/Summer 2024 trends.